How to combine retinol and niacinamide and what are the benefits of this alliance?

Retinol and niacinamide are two cosmetic actives that both stimulate collagen production and improve the skin’s firmness and elasticity.

Retinol, highly popular in recent years, has recorded an average annual growth rate (CAGR) of 3.8%, according to Grand View Research. The same source estimates the global market for beauty products containing niacinamide at USD 590.2 million in 2024, expected to reach USD 846.5 million by 2030.

Niacinamide (also known as vitamin B3) is one of the most versatile cosmetic ingredients available today. It helps maintain the integrity of the skin’s extracellular matrix by preserving collagen and inhibiting enzymes responsible for its degradation, as explained in a study published on the National Library of Medicine website.

By stimulating the production of ceramides (lipids that strengthen the skin’s natural barrier) niacinamide helps repair a weakened epidermis.
It also soothes irritation and redness, limits sebum production, evens the complexion, and protects the skin from environmental stressors.

Retinol (vitamin A) is a true catalyst of skin metabolism. It accelerates cellular renewal by promoting the elimination of dead skin cells.
A genuine anti-ageing treasure, it stimulates the production of collagen and elastin by acting within the dermal structure. It also improves skin tone uniformity, helps fade pigmentation spots and post-blemish marks.

Although retinol is often used to combat skin ageing, its anti-imperfection properties make it a valuable ally for acne-prone skin by regulating sebum production, refining skin texture, and purifying the complexion. However, certain skin types, particularly sensitive or reactive ones, may experience irritation.

For those experiencing intolerance, Nescens has developed the cellular renewal emulsion night, designed to stimulate cellular renewal and delay senescence while maintaining optimal skin comfort.

Yes, niacinamide and retinol can absolutely be combined, and their alliance is considered one of the most beneficial in modern cosmetology.
However, as with any meeting between two powerful actives, their association requires precision, moderation, and an understanding of skin balance.

Retinol works by stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes, boosting collagen synthesis, and restoring the dynamic rhythm of cellular renewal while refining the skin’s texture. It is a potent ingredient, and its action often comes with an adaptation phase, which may cause tightness, mild redness, or temporary sensitivity.
It is precisely at this stage that niacinamide should intervene as a true soothing counterbalance.

Thanks to its biomodulating action, niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier, maintains its integrity, and regulates inflammatory processes.
In synergy, retinol and niacinamide establish a dual dynamic that delivers both remarkable anti-ageing and anti-imperfection results without disrupting the skin’s natural equilibrium.

A 2008 study published in the International Journal of Molecular Medicine demonstrated that niacinamide significantly reduces irritation and dryness caused by repeated retinol use, paving the way for a gentler approach to skincare.

To achieve an effective anti-ageing routine, it is essential to balance cellular stimulation with the preservation of skin integrity. However, combining both actives requires a carefully designed routine to avoid disturbing the skin’s natural balance. Here are the key steps to follow.

The effectiveness of retinol and niacinamide used together depends primarily on their order of application. As in any precise dermatological protocol, the order determines tolerance, performance, and results.

In an evening routine, after removing makeup and cleansing the face, start by applying a niacinamide serum. This helps balance the skin’s pH, strengthen the protective barrier, and form a buffer that prevents retinol from being too harsh on the epidermis.

Next, apply retinol in a very thin layer (no more than the size of a small pea). Finish with a moisturizing cream, essential to maintain suppleness and hydration, ensuring a gentle yet effective routine.

Every skin type adapts and reacts differently. This is why both ingredients should be introduced gradually.

Lasting about one month, this phase allows the skin to make first contact with these actives and determine its level of tolerance.

One to two evenings per week, after cleansing, apply niacinamide first, then retinol, and finish with your usual moisturizer. It is important to space out applications to give the epidermis time to adjust and regenerate.

Following the initial phase comes the adaptation period, typically lasting three to four weeks.
During this stage, you can gradually increase application to three evenings per week, maintaining the same sequence as before.

After three to four weeks, your skin enters a steady state. Begin applying the duo every other night, monitoring how your skin responds. If no discomfort occurs, you may then transition to daily use of the retinol + niacinamide combination.

It depends on the texture of your niacinamide product:

• If it’s a serum: Its lightweight formula absorbs quickly between 30 seconds and 2 minutes is usually enough for complete penetration.

• If it’s a cream: Being thicker, it takes slightly longer, about 2 to 5 minutes, before applying retinol on top. This short waiting time ensures optimal absorption and comfort.

Retinol (and its derivatives, retinoids) is strictly not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding women, as high doses of vitamin A can be teratogenic (posing risks to the fetus).
It is also not suitable for sensitive or reactive skin or for those with conditions such as rosacea or couperose, as it may trigger redness and tightness.

Niacinamide, on the other hand, has very few contraindications. Only those with combination to oily skin should watch for possible occlusive effects if used in high concentrations.

Nighttime is the ideal moment to apply niacinamide and retinol. Between 11 p.m. and 3 a.m., while the body rests, the skin awakens and begins its cellular regeneration cycle.

This process starts in the basal layer of the epidermis, where keratinocytes multiply and slowly migrate to the surface while changing shape. As they move upward, they fill with keratin, becoming flatter and more resilient. After 28 to 40 days, dead cells naturally detach, revealing fresh, healthy skin underneath.

By stimulating keratinocyte division, retinol accelerates this renewal process, while niacinamide protects and soothes the skin throughout this biological rhythm.

After a night of intense cellular renewal, the skin needs hydration and comfort in the morning.
A soothing and replenishing routine will help restore suppleness and radiance.

Start with a toner to awaken the skin gently.
Then apply a hydrating serum to deeply quench and plump the epidermis. Finish with Molecular Regeneration Emulsion Day, which complements the night cream by restoring elasticity, density, and firmness to the skin.

To build a high-performance, well-balanced skincare routine, combine these two actives with the following ingredients:

• Hyaluronic Acid: A hydration powerhouse capable of retaining over 1,000 times its weight in water, helping the skin recover comfort and suppleness after retinol application.

• Ceramides: Often called the biological cement of the skin, these lipids bind cells together and reinforce the barrier against external aggressions.

• Peptides: True biological messengers, peptides signal the skin to produce more collagen and elastin, enhancing the regenerative effects of retinol and niacinamide.